Tag: fabric

Large grocery tote bag tutorial

Lissy CatFebruary 12, 2018Leave a Comment

Large Grocery Bag Tutorial

 

Reusable bags are great for grocery shopping. Apart from generating less plastic waste, they also tend to be stronger. They are also very easy to make. The one I make is generous in size, and fully lined. It is also easily customised by changing the length of the strap, added patch or zipped pockets, closing snaps, etc.

The pattern I use was made by measuring out a large rectangle on my cutting board:

I cut it 20″ by 16″. Then at two of the corners I cut out 2.5×2.5″ squares in order to created the boxed corners during constructing. For the handles, I either use webbing, or make the straps myself. I have a few bag patterns requiring straps and I have a few “patterns” made up in different lengths. The one I normally use for this bag is 20″ (and 2.5″ wide) long, but in all honesty, 22″ is a much better length for this size bag.

To make the bag, you need to cut two outside pieces, and two lining pieces. I prefer to use heavier fabrics, including drill, duck, canvas, furnishing fabric. This usually means the bag holds a little shape, without the need for interfacing or wadding. However, if you want something that is going to fold down much smaller, then quilting cotton or poplin would be fine. I usually use calico for the lining.

If making straps, rather than using webbing, then cut 2 pieces of each fabric (4 in total). If you want to add a pocket, then it is best done first, adding outside pockets to the right side of the outside fabric, and inside pockets to the right side of the lining fabric. I usually add a single inside patch pocket, great for car keys.

Pattern pieces cut

Once you have added any pockets, sew the lining pieces, right sides together, along the side and bottom (see picture below). Then do the same to the outside fabric pieces. Use a 1cm seam. Don’t sew along the corners in this step.

Sides and bottom sewn

The next step is to complete the corners. For each corner, you need to bring the bottom seam you have just sewn, to meet the corresponding side seam. It is difficult to describe in words, so take a look at the pictures below. Once you have these edges lined up, sew across with a 1cm seam. I reinforce each end.

Once you have one this to both the outside and lining pieces, then it is time to add the straps. For this bag I have used webbing, so there is no assembly requires for the straps. However, if you are making the straps, then you would sew two strap pieces together, along both of the long sides, with right sides facing. Then turn the strap right side out and press. The ends remain open. Top stitch if desired.

Place the lining, inside out, on a surface. I measure four inches from the side seam, and this is where I secure the strap. Make sure the strap isn’t twisted! When I use webbing I finger press the strap into an appropriate, untwisted configuration, prior to setting it into the bag.

Pin the straps in place. You need to have both straps set into the lining of the bag. You can baste these if you want. Next up, you place the outside of the bag (right side out) into the lining. To make sure you have done it right, check that the right sides of the bag pieces are facing each other. Pin around the top of the bag.

Next, sew around the top of the bag, but be sure to leave a gap for turning. If you don’t leave a large enough gap, the bag will rip when you try to turn it. In this step, if I am using webbing, I tend to backstitch over the straps for extra strength.

Turn the bag out. You will not just be turning out the outer bag fabric, but also the lining. And you will end up with something that looks like this:

Push the lining to the inside of the bag. Along the top of the bag, press, and topstitch. And you are done! Here is another one I have made (my sister claimed this one the moment she saw it):

Finished bag
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How to sew with trims: Episode 3

Lissy CatOctober 27, 2017Leave a Comment

In this post, I will have a look at how you sew trims into seams. This is how you would sew piping around the edge of a cushion, for instance. But I am not going to do that.

First I will add some cute fringe to the bottom of a pencil case. I am not going into detail about how the pencil case is made. At least, not yet.  The most important consideration here is that even though the fringe is being sewn to the bottom seam, what do I want to happen at the side seams?

In the picture above, you can see that I have basted the fringe onto the edge of the pencil case that will form the bottom seam. Remember to baste close to the edge so that your basting will not stick out of the seam in the end. If it does show, you will have to unpick it. Sounds like effort.

Also in the above photo, see that at the edges which form the side seam, I have trimmed some little fringe bit away. I don’t want them to get caught up when I sew the sides.

Next, pin the right sides of your fabric together. The fringe will be sandwiched between them. Then stitch your fabric together. I used a 1cm seam, and my basting stitches were about 3-4mm- so it ended up well hidden. As you sew the side seams, you can peek between your fabric layers to make sure that nothing gets sewn in.

Here is my pencil case with the seams sewn, and corners cut, ready to be turned out the right way. This is the moment of  truth. I had never done this before, so I wasn’t sure that I hadn’t stuffed it up.

Looks alright, eh? I make sure the corners of the outside of the case are well turned out before I close the gap in the stitches that I used to turn it. And after a little adjusting and a little more poking, it is finished.

The little fringes at the sides are sticking out because the corners didn’t turn out very sharply. I could cut them off if it bothered me, but it doesn’t. In the photo I have including some very useful tools. One is Wonder tape. And the other is a european brand of something that is similar, but different. Essentially they are both double sided tapes. They happen to be the only reason I can sew zips at all. The Wonder tape washes away, so no evidence. The other stuff doesn’t, so I have to make sure that I don’t use it anywhere where it might show.

 

In the next example, I add a little crochet lace to a flap closure on a little backpack. I was super tired when I did this and felt very much like I was just making it all up. The flap has an outside fabric and a lining fabric, and it order to add the trim, I essentially sandwich it between the two, into the curved edge.

 

First step was to place the trim over the curve I planned to decorate in order to measure how much I would need. Then I trimmed off the excess. Next was to baste it in place. Given that the trim is so small and narrow, I had to be careful how I basted it. I didn’t baste it right up against the edge, but offset 1-2mm from it. If I had set it right up against the edge, very little would have stuck out from the seam.

Next step is to make the sandwich. I lay the lining fabric face down (right sides facing), and secured it for stitching.

When stitching, it is important to keep you seam allowance consistent, in order to leave a consistent amount of trim. The allowance for this pattern is a quarter inch, which I tend to struggle with. Without pulling out specialised presser feet, I find it hard to achieve.

Once you are done stitching, clip the curve. Making these little cuts into the seam allowance allows the seam to lay flat after turning. Generally, the tighter the curve, the more frequently you place a cut. Also, be sure not to snip the seam!

Lastly, turn and press. If you look carefully, you can see that the trim does not have a consistent, even length. The trim to the right protrudes further than the rest. However, I was too tired to care. Close enough is good enough, most of the time.

Here is another trim that I have added to the seam. The dress I made is New Look pattern 6443. It is easy (with a just little experience under your belt), reasonably quick, and so lovely on completion. I think I have made about 6 of these. But this is about the trim, not the dress! The instructions for adding the trim are included in the pattern and are pretty straight forward. However, it is almost exactly the same as the techniques used above. 

 

Things to remember:

  • when you line up the trim with the edge of the fabric, keep the seam allowance in mind- how much is going to stick out of the seam?
  • Baste it in place. Don’t pin it, don’t wing it. Baste it. I hate basting, and yet I baste it. Baste. it.

 

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Sewing for charity

Lissy CatAugust 18, 2017Leave a Comment

If you have ever wanted use your gift of sewing to help others, know that there are heaps of organisations out there that would appreciate your help. These range from large national/international organisations, to smaller, local groups in your town.

Sometimes, it can be hard to know where to start. So I want to list some of the options available to guide you on your way.

If you are part of a sewing group, then a charity like Days for Girls, could be just for you. This organisation works with sewists around the world, to create menstruation packs for girls. Lack of menstrual hygiene products is a large reason that girls in some countries stop going to school.  There are quite strict guidelines for making the kits, and it is a hard ask for a lone sewist to make kits by themselves- but not impossible.

Another place to look is your nearest neonatal intensive care unit. Some units accept donations of sewn and knitted garments. Tiny Sparks WA accepts knitted hats and little boys and girls outfits- they even supply the patterns. They do have specific requirements, but these are all to facilitate the care of the wee bubbies in the unit. A lot of other NICUs also take donations of sewn clothes, but it is best to contact them before you start, as they may have their own patterns and requirements.

If you don’t have any NICUs in your area then consider the local birthing unit. Some mums and dads can’t afford sweet new things for their little bub. Most units will have a little stash of baby goodies for those less fortunate. Give them a call if you want to find out what you can do for them. These tend to have a more relaxed approach to donations, as babies born in these units don’t have  high care needs.

Now, if you aren’t a fan of sewing baby clothes, then homeless and women’s shelters are also looking for help. New clothes, blankets, toiletry and self care items are among items on the wanted list. In winter, especially in the southern regions, knitted items are very welcome! If you don’t knit, then you can head to Fleece Fun, and find plenty of snuggly sewing patterns for fleece!

Lastly, there’s a good chance your local animal shelter will gladly accept donations of blankets, especially in the cooler months. Wildlife centres may also have need for sewn goods- give them a call to find out what they need!

Currently, I donate to local womens shelters. I mostly make childrens clothes, but also blankets and carry bags. My favourite patterns to use are:

  • My simple skirt pattern: Quick to make, but easily embellished.
  • Tumble Bums by Pattern Emporium: A staple pattern for boys and girls shorts
  • Halloween Hat pack from Fleece is fun: Super easy and super cute fleece hats with lots of character. I have made these with cat and the bear ears- too adorable.
  • Raleigh Romper and Dress: This Blank Slate pattern is really easy. I use snaps instead of buttons to close, and I can whip these up quickly. The lined bodice is perfect to add embroidery to.
  • Hoodie vest by Tie dyed Diva: Easy and cute reversible hoodie. Great for children’s winter projects.
  • Reversible bag pattern:  The pattern by very purple pattern comes with a printable pdf, which I love. The bag becomes very quick to make when you get the hang of it.
  • My Large Grocery Tote Bag
  • My Drawstring Backpack pattern
  • Blankets: These make warm and comforting gifts. The quality of donated quilts can vary from patchwork wonders, to cheap store bought fleece throws. I like to do something that is a little bit more special than a cheap throw, but is definitely not as time consuming as a quilt. I get some flannel, and some matching fleece and sew them together to make a quick and cuddly throw. See below for a quick demo…

Start with pretty flannel (this is some Riley Blake I got on special). Grab some matching fleece. Any fleece will do, but in this case, I have some minky. Polar, husky, cuddle and micro fleece are all suitable. Even faux fur, if you find it at a good price, can be used. I usually buy a metre of both the fleece and the flannel for each blanket.

Next, decide which side of the fleece you want to be on the outside of the blanket.

With my minky, it only has fleece on one side, so this is a no-brainer. Place it right side up on a large surface. I use my floor! Place the flannel right side down on top of the fleece, lining up the edges as appropriate. Pin the fabrics together. If you used thick fleece, quilting pins would be better to use than normal ones. My fabrics are quite thin, but I have demonstrated using quilting pins. 

If you do it like I have, then you will find that often the width of the fleece is greater than the width of your flannel. I trim of this excess, and use it to make the Halloween Fleece Hats.

Once it is pinned, stitch around the blanket, leaving a 5 inch gap for turning. Clip corners. Turn the quilt to the right way out. Finally, top stitch the blanket all the way round, closing the gap that you left earlier. And it is done!

 

I would love to hear any other sewing for charity suggestions. <3

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